No Haussmann boulevards, no design hotels with waiting lists, no tourist menus for fifteen euros. What you do find here: murals on every corner, a mix of cultures that never feels forced, and restaurants where locals truly dine. The district borders the 19th and 20th arrondissements and is incredibly diverse (which you can see in the types of restaurants). Rawer than the Marais, less elegant than Saint-Germain, but genuinely reflects the city's diversity. Here are my favorite spots in Belleville.
What to Do in Belleville: Walk, Observe, and Discover
Start at Rue Dénoyez, a street functioning as an outdoor gallery without anyone having planned it that way. Murals, mosaics, graffiti, and planters alternately change, and what hangs today may be different tomorrow. Walk through and see what's there.
Parc de Belleville sits high in the district and offers one of the most beautiful views of Paris: the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, the rooftops. No selfie sticks, no tour buses. Locals picnicking, an open theater, and plenty of space for a breather. Ideal for a midway point during a day in the district.
Close to the park begins the Petit Ceinture, an old railway now serving as a green walking trail through the city. Perfect for slowing down without a destination in mind.
Then there's Rue Sainte-Marthe, one of the prettiest small streets in the district: colorful façades, workers' houses from another era, and a square full of bistros under tall trees. Photogenic not because it's designed to be, but because that's just how it is.
Want to catch a food market too? In my article on the best food halls in Paris, you'll also find the Food Market Belleville, a summer street festival on Boulevard Belleville that truly fits this district.
🎟️ View all activities in Belleville
Dining in Belleville Paris: Four Restaurants I Would Choose
Les Acolytes is the cozy neighborhood bistro you seek when you want a no-brainer. Seasonal dishes with French flair, a welcoming bar, friendly service, and baklava that makes you wonder if you should have another serving. Affordable, always good, and the vibe feels like you've been there before.
Le Grand Bain is my top recommendation on this list. Chef Toms Berzins combines a raw Belleville vibe with dishes that surpass expectations: langoustines in foie gras sauce, pork ribs with camembert. We sat outside on the terrace with plates arriving at a delightful pace. Everything is shareable, everything surprises. The bar bustles, and so does the atmosphere. Book in advance.
The Hood is technically just outside Belleville, but it fits the district so well that I had to include it. A mix of Singaporean café, neo-bistro, and creative hub: specialty coffee, pandan chiffon cake, nasi lemak, and laksa. Asian soul, natural wines, friendly folks, and the space to linger all morning. For those who want to leave Paris behind without leaving the city.
Le Cheval d'Or is the Chinese restaurant in Belleville where French and Asian flavors blend in ways you won't expect. Dumplings that hit the mark, refined fish that lingers, and a modern ambiance with just the right touch of cool. Reservations are not just recommended, they're a must.
Cafés and Terraces: Where to Sit in Belleville
Aux Folies is the café where Édith Piaf once sang and now artists, locals, and travelers gather for coffee or a beer. Laid-back by day, lively by night, with live music and small performances that aren't advertised but you'll always remember. This is the kind of place where Belleville shines best.
Les Acolytes also has a bar worth checking out if you're not dining but just want to sit. A glass of wine, some people-watching, life goes by.
Staying in Belleville Paris: Two Hotels with Ambiance
Hotel La Planque feels like a well-kept secret, just as the name suggests. Soft colors, vintage details, books, plants: as if you're staying with a creative Parisian friend. Intimate, homely, and stylish without being contrived. The rooms aren't large, but they're very well-maintained.
Babel Belleville isn't postcard-Paris, but real Paris. Multicultural, creative, and a bit raw, with interiors featuring warm colors and eastern influences. You can stroll to Canal Saint-Martin or hop on the metro to quickly find yourself in Le Marais. For those who want to experience Paris a bit differently.
Belleville Paris: Who is the District Best For?
Belleville is for those who already know Paris a bit and want to look beyond the classic route. For those who value a market, a mural, and a good glass of wine more than a recognizable name on a façade. Les Acolytes for an affordable evening with neighborhood vibes. Le Grand Bain for being delighted by food. Aux Folies for extending an evening beyond plans. And Parc de Belleville for seeing Paris from above without paying for it. Want to do something different the next day? The Latin Quarter is a bike ride away and offers a nice contrast: quieter, more literary, with the market street Rue Mouffetard at its center. Prices are indicative and may vary.
Don't want to endlessly search for great spots in Paris?
In my Google Maps guide you'll find all my favorite hotspots neatly together. From restaurants and wine bars to hotels and personally curated addresses. You only need to decide where to go first.
Check out the Mapped by Carole map of Paris
Frequently Asked Questions About Belleville Paris
What is Belleville in Paris?
Belleville is a district on the border of the 19th and 20th arrondissements, known for its multicultural vibe, street art, and local restaurant scene. Less touristy than the Marais or Montmartre, it's more eccentric in character.
Is Belleville safe to visit?
Yes. Belleville is a typical Parisian district with a lively neighborhood vibe. As always in any big city: stay alert, but there's no reason to avoid the district.
What are the best restaurants in Belleville Paris?
Le Grand Bain for refined dishes in a raw atmosphere, Les Acolytes for an affordable neighborhood bistro, and Cheval d'Or for Chinese cuisine with a French twist.